April 17 – June 26, 2024 (Spring to summer)

Still flying high off the total solar eclipse, we landed at Billy Bishop, a stunning approach✨ past the lakefront skyline and unbeatably convenient✨ to downtown Toronto. From there it was an easy tram to our Palmerston-Little Italy Airbnb✨. This was a brilliant neighborhood✨ to land in and gave us a great first impression✨ of the city.

Our arrival in spring coincided with the popular Cherry Blossoms✨ at High Park✨. A very warm welcome.

The west side of the city boasts a lot of history✨. There are multiple fortresses on what used to be the outskirts of the city. Princes’ Gates at Exhibition Place was dedicated by, and named in honor of, Princes Edward and George in 1927.

The waterfront is also a favorite recreation area. There were always plenty of cyclists and joggers taking in the skyline from Toronto Inukshuk✨ Park.

Fort York✨ is probably the most conspicuous historic site✨, occupying a prime spot in the shadow of the city✨. Notably it was burned by the Americans during the War of 1812, which served as pretext for the British burning of Washington DC.

The weather warmed quickly, and we were very much here for it. After a winter on Hvar, we didn’t have many cold-weather clothes left, and April in North America took us a little aback.

Palmerston-Little Italy was delightfully✨ family-friendly. Our local playground at Healey Willan Park was loaded with toys✨ donated or collected by people in the neighborhood. They were a big hit✨ with Kieran.

Another feature: an endless supply of great dining options. Even the wildlife agreed✨! We loved Imm Thai, Thairoom College, khao soi at THAI NYYOM… and probably even some non-Thai restaurants. There was also a glut of independent bookstores✨ and great craft beer✨. All the staples of a hip and livable neighborhood.

All in all, the area centered around College Street had a very chill, university-town✨ vibe. Mostly because it pretty much was. But these types of places tend to be incredibly nice places to live, and we were definitely charmed by this one.

As our Airbnb reservation wound down, we knew we weren’t ready to say goodbye to Toronto. So we rolled the dice on a new listing right in the middle of everything.

Downtown

It did not go well. The home was practically barren when we arrived, and after some back and forth the host admitted the previous tenants owned everything pictured and he struggled to get it ready for our arrival. He did a big IKEA run to plug the biggest holes, but we still felt wildly shortchanged compared to what we signed up for.

The area was also decidedly sketchier. That’s pretty much expected for downtown in a major North American city, but it was a stark contrast to our first neighborhood, let alone years of clean and safe European capitals.

Still, it wasn’t all bad. We had a porch with a grill✨, though we had to be careful about attracting wildlife✨. The main advantage was the location, a small home on a surprisingly quiet street, surrounded by high-rises✨ and near to everything.

Like Sankofa (formerly Yonge-Dundas) Square✨, an advertising-ringed intersection considered the “Times Square” of Canada. It borders an enormous shopping center, perfect for cute finds✨ when your traveling companion keeps outgrowing their wardrobe.

St. Lawrence Market✨ is another key attraction, a one-stop shop for everything from fresh produce to peameal bacon sandwiches, butter tarts to tea, and a whole host of tchotchkes. It was also a good place to grab some fresh oysters✨, though the experience at Pearl Diver, a nearby seafood restaurant, was even better.

There was nearly always a festival or event at Nathan Phillips Square✨ in front of the City Hall. And we were excited to find lots of nice and friendly craft bars, like Storm Crow Manor✨ (a very nerd-themed pub), C’est What?, Great Lakes, and even Goose Island✨ for a little taste of Chicago. We half-joked there were more craft bars on our street than in all of Croatia… but it was basically true. And for a bottle of wine with dinner, there’s the government monopoly✨. We actually found them surprisingly pleasant, much like Sweden’s Systembolaget.

But there wasn’t just more to do, there was more to see. From the iconic CN Tower to the Ontario Legislature✨, Gothic-Revival✨ to Art-Deco✨, there was endless beautiful architecture to take in.

Centre Island is a great reprieve from the shadowy canyons of skyscraper-lined streets. Just one of several islands in the small archipelago off Toronto’s shore (Billy Bishop Airport is on another), but the most popular✨ and developed for day-trippers.

It’s an ideal spot to bring kids✨, taste✨ and enjoy✨ a plate of poutine, and admire both the imposing Toronto skyline and the expanse of Lake Ontario✨.

Niagara Falls is another must-see. We rented a car for the two-hour journey and stashed it in a small lot just off Clifton Hill, which is as gaudy a tourist trap✨ as they come.

But Niagara Falls proper, both the world-famous waterfall itself and the turn-of-the-century hydroelectric engineering marvels✨ that surround it, are well worth the journey.

Since we had a vehicle, we also took the opportunity to visit some of the lovely wineries around Niagara-on-the-Lake. Byland✨ was a delightful find, a small family-run estate with exceptional products. Inniskillin, on the other end of the spectrum, is one of the biggest in the region but renowned for their icewine.

There was no shortage of getaways closer to home, either. Allan Gardens, our closest park, had a delightful free children’s conservatory✨ with turtles and luscious tropical plants, along with a grade-A playground✨. We headed east to Riverdale Park and were surprised to stumble across a farm✨ and petting zoo. On the water, Harbour Square Park✨ is a great place to feel some sea breeze and nosh on a beaver tail.

As the largest city in Canada, Toronto of course has its share of museums. Royal Ontario Museum is one of the best, replete with exhibits on natural history✨, culture✨, and science.

It’s easy to see why Toronto is one of the most sought-after (and sickeningly expensive) cities on the continent – it’s great! It’s relatively walkable✨. It has a few trains✨. But after living mostly in Europe for the better part of a decade, it’s begging for a qualifier: great… by North American standards.

It’s still way too car-centric. Toronto boasts one of the most congested highways in the world, and cut itself off from its own waterfront with a hideous elevated expressway. And it’s wildly pricey for what it is. On the other hand, the taste of American-style variety at the grocery stores is a fun treat, and this level of energy and diversity are rare in Europe outside maybe London.

Like our previous stays in Montreal and especially Quebec, we could definitely be happy here. But for now we’ll have to be happy somewhere else.