August 27, 2022 – November 30, 2023 (All year)
As long-term travelers, we know to expect the unexpected. But the last thing we expected to be was expecting. In mid-2022 we discovered we had a baby on the way, and quickly settled in on settling down – at least through the birth, but maybe beyond. Croatia was an obvious choice. We had experience navigating the bureaucracy and a bit of practice with the language. We crossed the coast off our list, with its high prices and overworked healthcare system. Instead we set our sights on the capital Zagreb, which boasts the most and best hospitals in the country, and where we’d had previous positive stays.
This post is about our 2022-23 year in Zagreb. Read about the original 2017 stay here, and 2019 return here.
We booked an Airbnb for a soft landing but quickly began hunting for a long-term solution. It was a bit of a struggle to find something suitable, with many underwhelming listings or even outright bait and switches✨. We mostly searched in the city center but also explored outer neighborhoods, including some more popular with families like Jarun and Novi Zagreb. But we wanted to be close to the hospital and ultimately settled on a fairly nice apartment✨ near Britanski Trg. The location ended up being ideal. Our neighbors less so.
When we arrived it was solidly late summer✨, but the weather quickly started to cool. October brings pumpkins, and with them the pumpkin festival✨ (Bučijada) in Ivanić-Grad. It’s a short train ride away from Zagreb (one of the few places that is – Croatia is not known for its stellar rail network) and well worth a visit for its cuisine and folk markets✨. Back in Zagreb we continued to celebrate the spirit of the season with our own Halloween pumpkin✨ carving.
There was still a while to go before the baby arrived, so we caught up on all our favorite city experiences. Kotthu✨ at Curry Bowl. Pleasant walks✨ in Park Maksimir✨. We made new friends at painting classes and pub quiz. And learned about our new home outside of the touristy Advent season, when it’s not dolled up for show and just lived in✨.
We had repeatedly promised ourselves that we’d visit Istria the next time we were in Croatia, so took advantage of our last days of childfree mobility with a weekend getaway to Rovinj✨. In the late shoulder/early offseason it was not quite as shuttered✨ as the Dalmatian coast – we did manage to find a few nice restaurants still open – but it was admittedly rather quiet✨.
Tone was the standout for truffle pasta✨ and truffle prawns✨. The seafood mix✨ at Restoran Giannino was fine but a little underwhelming, as we expected it to be grilled and not deep fried. Luckily Rovinj is the perfect pace to walk off excess calories, with a beautiful shore walk✨ and fresh sea air✨.
Zagreb’s 2022 Advent season was a return to form after the scaled-back trifle in 2021. All the highlights were accounted for: Advent candles✨ at Trg bana Josipa Jelačića, the Christmas tree✨ at Saint Mark’s Church, lights✨ and markets in the Upper Town✨, and decorations in Grič tunnel✨. They even went so far as to (temporarily) remove the scaffolding from the cathedral! (Don’t worry, it came back with a vengeance the following year.)
Traditionally in Croatia, people don’t purchase Christmas trees until just days before the big event. We picked ours up at this for-charity live tree sale✨ at Ban Jelačić.
Iva of Swanky Travel put on quarterly events funded by the Zagreb Tourist Board. We jumped at every one we could, but the one for Christmas 2022 topped them all. It began with a trip to Trakošćan Castle✨ and tour of the interior✨. The winter wonderland✨ of Northern Croatia culminated with a delicious dinner at restaurant and winery Vuglec Breg. There a fairytale snowfall✨ rewarded us with the perfect end to a magical day.
There was just enough time for one last surprise before Christmas. Croatia won 3rd place at the 2022 FIFA World Cup in Qatar, and the whole country celebrated like it was an absolute win! Zagreb greeted the returning team✨ as heroes, with live news coverage of their arrival at the airport and celebratory concert in the main square.
While we awaited our own celebratory arrival in late January, the new year brought big changes to our new home. January 1 2023 saw Croatia’s ascent into the Schengen Area and adoption of the euro✨ as its national currency, replacing the kuna. While the switch was not without controversy, it was inarguably more convenient for us to work with euros, and a fascinating social experiment to live through the transition.
Mostly we enjoyed our day-to-day life in Zagreb. Riding on crowded trams✨ wasn’t always pleasant, as Covid was still very real and people were generally indifferent (or indignant) to getting up for a pregnant lady. We did make the most of settling down though, from buying a house plant✨ to making niche recipes (homemade Sauerbraten!✨) that we don’t usually have the time or ingredients for. And it was fun to watch our city grow and change throughout our stay. A stumbling block✨ was installed in front of our house. They moved our tram stop✨. A trash can✨ in the courtyard overflowed with a life of its own as no one seemed to be responsible for emptying it. And it wouldn’t be an awayfarers stay without an unwelcome renovation next door✨.
At long last, on a cold and dark morning in late January, our baby son was born. We chose the private Poliklinika Podobnik✨, in part out of necessity. It took far longer for our residency to be approved than we expected from our previous experience, so we had no time to connect with a public doctor and were doing everything private up until the birth anyway. It was not a perfect experience, but we did leave with a perfect little boy.
The first weeks were a sleepless blur. The wee hours✨ of February mornings brought occasional snow✨ that made us almost glad we weren’t going out much. And when we did, it was much more of an ordeal than we were used to. Now we had to plan routes around where we could reach with a stroller! The top of Gornji Grad✨, just a few streets away, might as well have been the moon.
March brought the Festival of Lights, where Zagreb landmarks are lit up✨ with fanciful patterns✨ projected on buildings, or even elaborate animated shows✨ like at the Mimara Museum✨. It’s not exactly unique to Croatia – lots of cities all over Europe boast similar events – but it’s nice to have something to hype up in the post-holiday doldrums.
On another Swanky Travel trip, the first of the new year, Kevin traveled (sans mommy and baby) to see the town of Đurđevac and the Đurđevački Pijesci, also known as the “Croatian Sahara.” It began at the visitor center✨, followed by a trip to the fortress✨ in Đurđevac, where a pair of actors performed a reenactment of the city’s legend:
Besieged by the Ottomans and with dwindling supplies, the townspeople launched their last chicken✨ at the enemy. The invaders, crestfallen that their target was apparently so well provisioned that they could afford to launch food as weapons, gave up the siege and left, saving the city.
Nearby the town’s famous sands (much smaller than the real Sahara, to be clear) hosted a petting zoo with camels✨ and other animals✨.
Being born in Croatia didn’t earn Kieran any special treatment in regards to citizenship (something we knew going in, but which surprised nearly everyone we spoke to). Not only that, but he needed residency of his own, and fast! We hurriedly applied for his American passport✨ to in turn apply for a temporary residence permit so our baby wouldn’t be deported. Only once that was approved could we finally apply for his health insurance. Like us, he was on the hook for back payment for the preceding year, though the HZZO generously waived the portion for which he didn’t exist.
With the changing of the seasons we finally got to enjoy some time outdoors with our son. Our new baby carrier✨ was one thing we had been itching to try out, and we finally got our chance on a mini hike✨ at Jelenovac park. Kieran didn’t seem too interested though. Nor was he impressed to meet other babies his age✨ at Park Maksimir.
Maybe he just holding out for something more impressive? At just 11 weeks old he got to experience is first international trip, a quick jaunt to Ljubljana✨, Slovenia. We knew from prior experience that it would make an easy and pleasant day trip: Tivoli Park✨, statues of dragons✨, a lovely and walkable✨ old town. Though nervous about the commotion, Kieran took to travel✨ surprisingly well. We, on the other hand, were still operating on no sleep✨; even the best-case scenario made for a long day.
Still, it was important practice for our first transatlantic flight a few weeks later. Danielle’s niece was getting married, and a family gathering would be the perfect place to introduce the new baby. He was a little suspicious at Zagreb airport✨, but was thankfully very quiet✨ on our flights. We flew LOT (laying over in Warsaw), and their bulkhead seats✨ and bassinet✨ were a godsend. In the States, Kieran was indifferent to a sightseeing cruise on Lake Geneva✨, but was absolutely chuffed✨ about the road trip to the wedding. It took a little while to warm up to the family, but at the end of the day even Grandpa✨ won him over. There’s no such thing as a short flight with an infant, but the long flight home✨ wasn’t so bad. Overnight✨ is better going east, so we can sleep on the flight and wake up relatively intact.
Back in Croatia, summer was a treat. Zagreb is relatively quiet as locals stream to the coasts for vacation, but makes up for it with a packed calendar of festivals. There was the pizza festival✨ at Park Josipa Jurja Strossmayera and the burger festival✨ at Park dr. Franje Tuđmana, another Swanky Travel trip (this time a river cruise✨ in Karlovac✨), and our favorite, Vinski Grad, or wine city✨. Peak summer✨.
Summer also brings our anniversary✨, which we celebrated with a lovely sushi dinner✨ at NOMU sushi & wine.
Being parents was the perfect excuse to visit some attractions we’d previously missed, like the city zoo✨ and the Nikola Tesla Technical Museum✨. Unlike the one in Belgrade, this one is just named for Tesla, not really about him. But we did enjoy the (slightly dated) exhibits, especially the replica Soviet rover✨, a prize from Yugoslavia’s unaligned era where both superpowers courted her favor.
In mid-July, a major summer storm brought the city to its knees. Extensive damage✨ from downed trees✨ and flooding✨ took weeks to repair✨, and unfortunately forced our friends’ paint & wine class out of their newly-renovated space.
Croatian expat discussion groups often attracted defensive responses from locals (try asking where to find a non-smoking bar!). Someone was chastised for asking about Oktoberfest in Zagreb – it’s not a Croatian tradition and is never celebrated here. Yet Pivnica Medvedgrad, granddaddy of Croatian craft breweries, hosts an excellent Oktoberfest event with seasonal beers and German food. Very popular with foreigners and locals alike!
Speaking of craft breweries, we often visited Garden Brewery✨, whose lovely courtyard was an excellent place to meet up and socialize with friends. Their inability to spell our name✨ became a running joke✨. But the Planina✨ Double Imperial Affogato Stout was no joke, easily winning our respect and admiration.
By autumn we had pretty much decided that we were going to move on at the end of our rental contract. Unlike Dubrovnik, Zagreb was a welcome port in a storm, but we weren’t ready to make it our forever home. We made the most of our remaining time though. Revisiting the pumpkin festival✨ in Ivanić-Grad, baby’s first babycino✨ at the Cat Café, walks all over (and under✨) the old town.
The nearby town of Samobor✨ makes for an enjoyable day trip. About half an hour from downtown Zagreb by bus, it’s known for a pleasant✨ and walkable old town✨. It’s also famous for kremšnita✨, a local delicacy adapted from Austrian cremeschnitte (custard cake).
The day after Halloween is All Saint’s Day, a big deal in Croatia. Mirogoj Cemetery✨ becomes a beautiful spectacle, lit up with thousands upon thousands of candles. It’s also incredibly popular and crowded, but with everyone on their best behavior✨, a worthwhile visit.
On our first visit to Zagreb we got a peek at Reboot InfoGamer✨ video game expo, and this time Kevin took the opportunity to exhibit his newest game. As the indie developer who had traveled the farthest for the show (kinda), the local TV network even interviewed him! …though once again demonstrating the Croatian inability to spell✨ our name.
As the city set up for yet another Advent, we prepared to move✨ to our next home. We’d seen the city through four seasons, a first for us in many years, and experienced many up and downs. We got to glimpse the opening night of the season’s festivities before saying our goodbyes.
As the sun set on our stay in Zagreb, we looked forward to an exciting new world of adventure. How would our travels be different with a baby in tow? How exciting to get to see new sights, or relive our favorite places through his fresh eyes!
