July 2 – 30, 2022 (Summer)
If Bratislava rings a bell, it’s probably as the stereotypically bleak and debaucherous ‘Eastern European’ city in the movie Eurotrip (ironically filmed in Prague). While it used to have a bit of a stag night problem, it’s increasingly become a bedroom community and satellite city for Vienna, shedding its party town✨ reputation in favor of a more boring and business-oriented veneer.
The principal landmark is Bratislava Castle, a boxy affair✨ that probably won’t make our list of Best Castles, but can be seen for miles around✨. We stayed near the base of the hill, so found ourselves exploring it✨ often.
Some places we go are stunning for sightseeing. Others immediately charm us and just pleasant to live in. Some are a little of both. Bratislava is a little of neither. It’s not bad, it’s just… fine. It’s got a fine pedestrianized✨ Old Town with a fine market, some fine architecture✨, and a fine castle overlooking a stretch of the Danube.
The Slovak border near Bratislava generally follows the Morava and Danube rivers but also includes a small wedge of land across the river✨. This highly urbanized Slovak side of the line contrasts with the Austrian surroundings of wheat✨ and corn✨.
Even though we spend a fair amount of time in the Schengen Area, it’s still rare to be within walking distance of a border, and we couldn’t pass up the chance to take a short hike across the UFO bridge✨ for a selfie✨ in Österreich.
We likewise couldn’t stay a month so near Vienna✨ and not finally pay a visit. Coach bus service and even ferry lines link the cities, but the train is the fastest option. The legendary capital of empire retains many of the trappings of past grandeur✨, including Schönbrunn Palace and its gardens. St. Stephen’s Cathedral is imposing inside✨ and out✨.
Hofburg✨ was the imperial palace of the Habsburg dynasty for centuries and now houses everything from museums and the National Library✨ to a horse-riding school. Nearby Kunsthistorisches Museum Wien is a great stop to take in some art✨ and history✨.
Ultimately, it’s not like Bratislava is devoid of charm. We discovered some quirky✨ and unique sights, including the beautifully pastel Blue Church✨ and even a cheese vending machine✨.
One of the most memorable experiences was Devín Castle✨, which overlooks the confluence✨ of the Danube and Morava✨ rivers. During the Cold War, this area was a heavily armored link in Iron Curtain, a frontier between East and West. After the Velvet Revolution, it was demilitarized and has since become a popular tourist destination✨.
One of the things we love most about Europe is how easy it is to live an urbanist and car-free lifestyle. Bratislava stands out most for its disastrous oversupply of roads. A big highway✨ slices right through the city, divorcing the pedestrian-friendly old town✨ from its castle. While Bratislava may not be a must-see destination, it was a fine place to spend a month. But in the end, that big road to better places was impossible to ignore.
