December 1, 2023 – March 23, 2024 (Winter)
Zagreb treated us well. It gave us a healthy baby boy, a pediatrician who never flinched at our rookie-parent questions, and a circle of friends we hated to leave. But as Kieran’s first birthday crept closer, so did the dread of another gray Zagreb winter. We wanted sunlight, sea air, and room for a wobbly toddler to roam.
So we pointed the stroller south to Hvar, Croatia’s sunniest island.
This post is about our 2023 stay on Hvar. Read about the original 2020 stay here.
We stayed close with our landlords from our Covid-era stay, and when we came to them to raise the subject of overwintering here again, they were happy to have us. Their home overlooks the harbor✨ from the west. It’s a bit of a hike✨, but it’s a quiet part of town✨ – even by offseason Hvar standards – with an enviable view✨.
Croatia in general is very safe, but nowhere is as tranquil as Hvar town at night✨ in the offseason. We like to joke that we’re living our same boring lives, just with a castle out our window✨. Nowhere is this better demonstrated than Hvar.
Our favorite pastime is simply walking the beautiful shore path. West, to watch the lone fisherman✨.
East,✨ to watch the Jadrolinija ferries✨ come and go and the sunset light the sky on fire✨. And beyond, the road to Pokonji dol Beach✨.
Once again, our stay coincided with Advent season. It was hardly celebrated in 2020, but by 2023 Hvar was fully back in the swing of things (well, almost✨). Though small compared to Zagreb, Hvar boasted a little Advent market✨, and for the first time, its own ice-skating rink✨. A key local tradition is the public serving of bakalar (salted cod) stew✨. And everyone enjoys Christmas presents✨.
Between Christmas and New Year’s Eve, Hvar hosts its famous New Year’s Regatta. Sailors came from all over the world to compete. We too had people come from all over the world to visit us as well – okay, a couple friends from Zagreb✨, but still. We enjoyed the rare opportunity to show off✨ the views we love✨ in person.
New Year’s proper is celebrated exactly as you’d expect – fireworks, drinking, concerts and the like. With an infant at home, we were happy just to watch the festivities from our window.
As the sun rose✨ on a new year, the doldrums of January gave us a lot of time✨ to find our own entertainment✨. Kieran celebrated his first birthday✨, and had his first opportunities to play at the beach✨.
The weather stayed remarkably calm, with few of the jugo windstorms of our last stay. This gave us ample opportunity to enjoy the outdoors✨. February brought out the processionary caterpillars✨, a scourge of prickly toxic critters that follow each other in mesmerizing, though not always logical✨, concatenations.
Like any self-respecting southern European country, Croatia celebrates Carnival✨ ahead of Lent. The celebration was very family-friendly, with costumes, plays for kids, and a parade. We briefly appreciated the crowds before taking the opportunity to find some quiet✨ and unpopulated✨ places to hang.
As winter gave way to spring, the weather began to pick up a bit. On several occasions dramatic, churning fog banks would appear on the horizon before growing and blanketing the town. Usually they signaled a coming turn in the weather✨.
More frequent rain✨ and relatively cool temps led to a persistent damp✨ lingering in the valley.
But these gray days made the ones when the clouds parted✨ all the sweeter✨.
The homebody days weren’t wasted, however. We loved to take advantage with hardy✨ and satisfying meals✨ that made the most of the quality ingredients at our disposal. Our hosts even brought us fresh olive oil✨ squeezed from their own personal grove.
At the end of the day, we got exactly what we wanted out of an extended stay in Hvar. The weather was pleasant, the air was clean, our son got to practicing walking✨ without cars buzzing past, and we got to take some tentative steps✨ toward traveling with a baby in tow✨.
But the beach bars✨ going up were our cue to leave. It was bittersweet – Hvar was our cherished refuge during Covid, and our first opportunity to begin introducing the world to our son. Besides, we had an important appointment to make on the other side of the world.
