April 30 – May 28, 2022 (Spring)
As the Romanian spring grew warmer, we decided to head up to the heart of the Carpathian Mountains and beautiful Brașov. Like Porto, it has a touristic reputation that belies a very homey and welcoming vibe. We were charmed immediately, and with daily hikes and once-in-a-lifetime experiences stuffing our stay, we left with yet another new favorite place.
The old center sits squarely in a valley, partly surrounded by old defensive structures and partly hemmed in by the mountains themselves. Tampa in particular dominates the skyline. A huge Hollywood-style sign✨ at the top ensures nobody in town is going to forget where they are anytime soon.
The mountain is crisscrossed with trails in every direction and accessible just steps from the main square. Of course we found ourselves climbing it constantly. Summiting takes less than an hour and rewards with stunning views. To the south, homes fill every nook✨ in the valley. To the north, the city sprawls✨ into the foothills and flat plains of Southeastern Transylvania.
Our cramped but cozy✨ apartment was in a mazy attic in the center, quite near Council Square✨. We quickly learned that Ograda, a trendy restaurant on the square, was a great place for delicious locally-sourced meals. Mamaliga✨ in particular is a hit.
Brașov also charmed in other ways. Wooden sculptures✨ and other touches dotted the town. We’ve been fans of the architecture since our very first visit to Romania, when we stopped by the not-too-distant Peleș Castle. Walking up the back of town we saw a charming and quiet side of the city that seemed to blend effortlessly into the mountains✨ and encouraged us to wander straight into the wilderness.
The tranquil and timeless views from Tampa✨ always impressed. But we were also tempted by views of grander mountains just beyond, and we couldn’t resist exploring further.
The nearby ski resort town of Poiana Brașov is famous and loved for what it offers in the winter, but those same dedicated bus routes and cable cars that shuttle skiers up the slopes are also available for hikers’ and mountain climbers’ pleasure in the summer. Or, if you’re feeling adventurous, you can always just walk.
The narrow, jagged peaks✨ rise dramatically above the landscape, offering a stark contrast to the valley we’d come from. The air is cooler, and the views are even more breathtaking.
We spent most of our time ‘in’ Brașov looking back toward it from surrounding overlooks. Climbing the western slope is less wild✨ than Tampa, but has a better view of the Gothic-style Black Church.
Brașov is beautiful, but not huge. After climbing every inch it was nice to get out of town a few times for a change of scenery. One such destination was the don’t-call-it-a-castle Fortified Evangelical Church in Hărman/Honigberg✨.
One bucket list item we wanted to cross off in Romania was to finally visit the famous Transfăgărășan highway mountain pass. We found an excellent tour guide that accommodated us even though the pass wasn’t yet open for the season. On the way, we stopped to see the castle in the city of Făgăraș.
The tour was on power-assisted bicycles, up close and personal. Even though we might have managed under pedal power alone, we were glad for the extra oomph.
The pass is world-famous for a reason. Complex and winding switchbacks✨ meander between stunning mountains✨ like a ribbon draped over the wilderness✨.
As our guide warned us, the pass wasn’t yet open all the way to Bâlea Lake. Still, we took it as far as we could.
Finally we reached the end of the road. Coasting back down the twists and turns of the Transfăgărășan, we had plenty of time to reflect on our remarkable time in Romania. If and when we come back, it’ll be to Brașov.
