July 26 – August 22, 2024 (Summer)
While we’ve talked about getting to revisit our favorite places and share them with our son, we naturally gravitated toward one in particular. Vilnius, Lithuania isn’t where we’ve spent the most time, but it is the place we come back to more than any other. It’s a vibe that puts a smile on our faces every single day. Would that impression hold with a baby in tow?
This post is about our 2024 visit to Vilnius. Read about our previous stays in 2017, 2018, 2019, and 2022.
For the first time, we chose an Airbnb in the rapidly-developing neighborhood of Šnipiškės. It was an interesting juxtaposition, a very rustic-feeling✨ home in a tucked-away courtyard, but well-connected✨ and right across the street from our beloved (and bustling) Kalvarijų turgus.
Venturing south toward the Old Town, we usually found ourselves crossing King Mindaugas Bridge by Cathedral Square. It was the simplest and flattest crossing with a stroller, and put us in close proximity to the walkable and family-friendly Bernardine Garden.
The paths of Bernardinų follow the Vilnia River✨ and provide a shortcut to Užupis✨. This is usually our base in Vilnius, but the narrow, cobbled streets, crowded sidewalks, and steep staircases made it a pain to navigate this time. Still, we had to pay a visit to our favorite Užupis cat (the cuddly one in the cemetery✨, not this one✨).
Trakai Island Castle is a simple and easy day trip, even with a toddler. We appreciated the quiet approach along Lake Galvė✨, though the touristic waterfront✨ was also pleasant.
What better way to appreciate a warm summer✨ day by the lake than a lunch of and ? Even Kieran was excited, though by some things✨ more than others.
Our stay overlapped with the 2024 Summer Olympics in Paris. There was a semi-permanent watch party✨ at the park around the White Bridge and in front of the CUP mall✨. That was also the site of the best age-appropriate playground in the city. After Canada and Finland, the relative lack of baby swings in Vilnius took us by surprise, and we quickly built up a map of the few✨ good✨ ones.
Like on Hvar, a lot of our favorite walking circuits were off-limits with a stroller. We had to plan our routes around which streets were had wide sidewalks and less traffic✨, rather than which were fastest or most scenic.
That didn’t stop us from exploring, though. We still cherished pleasant walking routes along the Neris✨. And it pushed us to branch out to greener pastures, like the Japanese Garden.
Reminders of the war in Ukraine were everywhere, from flags✨ and murals✨ to this prominent NATO signage in front of the Office of the President of the Republic of Lithuania.
Gediminas Castle Tower✨, well, towers over Vilnius from all vantages. It’s an icon✨ of the city.
It was absolutely worth braving the hundreds of steps for the commanding views over the Palace of the Grand Dukes of Lithuania and beyond.
Of course, it’s impossible to talk about Lithuania without bringing up the beer. Opportunities to enjoy it were fewer and further between for obvious reasons, but pubs where food was served were very welcoming and kid-friendly, including Būsi Trečias, Šnekutis, and the esteemed Alaus Namai.
For delicious craft beer in a classy✨ setting, Alaus Biblioteka is always a treat. And we had to stop by Alaus Kolonėlė✨ since we lived right next door. While not as scenic as some spots, it’s one of the best places in Vilnius for sampling a mix of local craft offerings and one-of-a-kind farmhouse ales.
Revisiting Vilnius with Kieran was, as expected, a treat. Our roughly-annual stop-ins allow us to experience the city’s evolution – the Franciscan Monastery✨ renovation is slow but sure✨, and the old church✨ on Savičiaus is something different every time we visit.
But now we got to experience new joys. Playing✨ in fountains✨ at Lukiškės Square. The simple excitement of riding on an old trolley bus✨. Vilnius with a little one was more challenging, but no less rewarding.
